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- Certain questions come up all the time on the various discussion boards, particularly theSamba's popular Baywindow Forum. This is a FAQ made up from my replies to.
- Framing floating basement walls, a requirement in Colorado. Floating walls in your basement can seem tricky, but it's really not. Find out more here!
The pipes in your kitchen and bathroom do a lot more than you think. Check out our guide to drain-waste-vent (DWV) systems, which keep your house running smoothly.
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Framing Basement Walls - How To Build Floating Walls. Framing your basement walls is the true first step in finishing a basement.
Get ready, because this is when all of your time spent researching, planning, and designing your basement will finally pay off. You’re like Rocky running the steps, pumping your fists, training so hard for your one chance at glory. Well that time is NOW! Do me a favor and turn down ‘Eye of the Tiger’ so you don’t wake the family.
The first time I pulled out the measuring tape and started marking out studs was a great feeling, and I hope you’ll feel the same way. If not, go ahead and turn ‘Eye of the Tiger’ back up. Heck, wake the neighbors it’s time to get pumped! Okay let’s back it up, I just needed to get you psyched. Before jumping in with the pneumatic nailer you’ll have to decide what framing method you’d like to go with. If you’re here to learn about framing floating walls for your basement, click here to jump to the bottom where I get specific about my floating walls, a requirement when finishing your basement in Colorado. After reading this post you may have questions, do yourself a favor and join my free Framing Forum.
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Say that three times fast. As for framing your basement walls, there are two main methods that I’ve come across in my research: Frame Your Basement – Methods. Build the wall on the floor and lift it into place. Build the wall “in- place”It might seem like the “lift into place” method is the easiest and most logical. This is what I thought at first, but after the research it seems the better method is the “in- place method.
It’s better for a few reasons: With the “lift into place” method you’re stuck building the wall 1/4- 1/2″ shorter than it should be to allow for clearance when lifting. This means you have to use shims to make up for this lost space. The “in- place” method doesn’t require shims, meaning you’re left with a more stable wall (I do have a method that doesn’t require extra clearance or shims, check out the “Build on Floor Method” below)If you’re framing a basement on your own, the “in- place” method is far easier than the “lift into place” method. That being said, I had to take a different approach as I was required to build floating walls in my basement. As a result I had no choice and built my floating walls on the floor and lifted them in to place. If you’re not required to frame floating walls, I would recommend the “in- place” method as it will save you time overall.
ESPECIALLY if you’re doing most of the work yourself, you’ll save a few headaches. Frame Your Basement – Getting Started. Just get in there. Measure out that first wall and just go for it. It took me at least a few weeks before I mustered up the courage to get started, but there was no need for a delay.
I chose to build my first wall in a simple spot with no windows, no soffits, and the shortest length wall in my basement. I recommend doing the same, just to make it easy on yourself and build your confidence when it comes to some of the trickier wall placements. Get Lumber. For your first wall, do yourself a favor and run to Lowe’s/Home Depot/Your Local Lumber Yard and get just enough lumber for your first wall. If you’re like me and are planning on finishing your basement over weeknights and weekends, you don’t want excess lumber laying around for a long time. See below for my biggest challenge (or doh!
Once you’ve finished off the first wall measure out your basement and place an order for the lumber to be delivered to your house. A heck of a lot easier than making constant runs to pick it up yourself and you’ll save yourself a ton of time. I’m not sure I saved a lot of money doing it this way, but I did save a lot of time, and to me saving my personal time is a lot like saving money. Pressure- Treated Bottom Plate. I’m pretty sure this is required most everywhere, but not positive, so don’t quote me on this one. However, I needed a pressure treated bottom plate (2.
X4 board) for all of my basement walls, and if code in your area requires the same than you’re going to want some things: 1) Pressure- treated plate (duh!)2) Concrete nail gun and powder loads. Nails for the nail gun (duh!)4) Construction- strength adhesive. Noticed I said you’re going to WANT these things. You’ll need the pressure- treated plate and probably construction- strength adhesive, but you can get away without the concrete nail gun, it will just require a lot of time and effort on your end. I purchased a Ramset . Powder Actuated gun for about $9.
Home Depot and I can honestly say it was one of my favorite purchases of my entire basement finishing project. The only downside to the cheaper gun I purchased was that it couldn’t handle a powerful load, meaning I had to purchase two different strengths of powder loads. In my research on this gun a lot of people said they had to take two shots to fully seat each nail in the pressure treated plate, one 4- power and one 3- power load. I found the exact same to be true, and ended up shooting each nail twice, starting with the yellow “4 Power” load and then finishing it off with the green “3 Power” load. Something I would highly recommend is purchasing construction- strength adhesive and running thick beads underneath this pressure- treated plate before shooting your nails in. I found that if I didn’t use the adhesive, the board would sometimes wiggle and not be completely secure after nailing. This seemed to be the result of the concrete breaking and cracking instead of allowing the nail to go in cleanly.
Fix that problem with A LOT of construction adhesive. I recommend the Loctite Construction Adhesive from Home Depot.
Pay an extra buck for the premium stuff, because IT’S WORTH IT!! Measure, Cut, and Mark Studs.
Alright your pressure treated plate is down. Congratulations, time for a beer and a 1. You should have your length from the length of your pressure treated plate so cut two more plates the same length, a top and bottom plate for your first wall. At this point you’re ready to mark out the wall for your studs, 1. If you want to try and get away with 2. I chose to go 1. 6″ on center with all my walls, a few exceptions being some shorter walls surrounding my mechanical room.
Start by clamping your top and bottom plate together, I used two of my trusty Irwin Quick Grip clamps on each end. At this point you’re ready to mark out where your studs will be nailed. Here are the most common mistakes made when doing this: Not adjusting 3/4 of an inch for your first layout mark. Not following a continuous 1. Not using framing square for layout. Not using straight plates. Placing studs on the wrong side of the layout mark. At the beginning, measure 3/4″ in from inch the edge of the plates and make a mark.
At this mark, I used a finishing nail and hammered it in to the side of one of the plates. I then hooked my tape measure on this nail, ran the tape measure down to the end of the plates, and then made marks every 1. It’s important to note that this mark that you make every 1. DOES NOT represent the center of your studs, it represents the outside edge. I would remember this by placing an X on the inside of the mark, or on the side that I hammered the finishing nail.
This X will represent which side of the mark your stud will be nailed. When you’ve made all your marks, use a square of some kind to go down your plates and make a line down both plates at each mark, remembering to put your X on both plates as well. At this point the next step depends on what framing method you’re using to build your wall. If you’re here to read about floating walls, scroll down and check out the “Floating Walls Method.”Building Wall In- Place Method.
Time to get your top and bottom plates in place. Your pressure treated plate will act as your point of reference for translating a straight line up to your ceiling joists for nailing in your top plate. I used a State- of- the- Art Level you can see in the image above in order to do this. Basically you choose one of your straightest studs, cut it exactly to the height of your basement ceiling joists, and tape a larger level on one of the sides. Now take the level you created and butt it up against the pressure treated plate.
Climb a ladder and once the level is straight up and down, mark a line on your ceiling joist using your board as your guide. Do this a couple times along the length of the wall and you’re ready to nail your top plate in! Nail your bottom plate to the pressure treated plate and you are ready to measure and cut your studs.